In the history of a town the first fact is its site. Our knowledgeof the situation of the city is what we know of the earliest Londoners,the men of the dim ancient ages who made their settlement on theroadway of the Thames.
 
The Thames valley stretches -between the hills of Hertfordshire on thenorth and the North Downs on the south. The channel of the river mustonce have been both broader and straighter than it is at present; andit flowed through a marsh which at high tide was flooded. On eitherside it had tributary streams.

The Westbourne, from the slopes north of Hyde Park, followed a pathsuggested by the Serpentine, and reached the Thames by way of thedistrict now Belgravia. The course of the Tyburn is indicated by thepond in St. James's Park, and near its mouth it formed the island ofThorney, the site of Westminster Abbey.

The Fleet or the Holburn had its source in the slopes of Hampsteadand Highgate, and crossed modern Fleet Street and Holborn: in thetwelfth century it was navigable at least as far as Fleet Street.Walbrook cut the city in two, roughly along the line of the streetwhich has its name ; and the river Lea flowed on the outskirts of thesite of greater London. On the left bank of the Thames the ground formsa terrace,some two miles broad, which consists of flint gravel, more or lesssandy,and which rests on London clay. Its level was broken chiefly by theFleet,eastwards of which the land sloped upwards in what is now Ludgate Hill.Itwas on this gravel terrace to the east of the Fleet that the firstLondoners settled: there, by sinking shallow wells, they could obtain awater supply; there they escaped the malarial vapours of the swamps ofEssex and Kent; no hill was near to provide a vantage point 


for theirenemies ; and the Thames connected them with the rest of the world.

Geoffrey   of Monmouth, who wrote  an   account of the origin of London, in  the twelfth  century, recognised the importance of its site.    He told that Brutus, after he had named his kingdom of Britain, " entered upon a design of building a city, and in order to it, travelled through the land to find out a convenient situation; and coming to the river Thames, he walked along the shore, and at last pitched upon a place very fit for his purpose.

Here, therefore, he built a city which he called New Troy, under which name it continued a long time after, till at last by corruption of the original word it came to be called Trinovantum."    Subsequently King Belinus made in the city a gate " of wonderful structure, which the citizens call after his name Belingsgate to this day.

  
Over it he built a prodigious large tower, and under it a haven or quay for ships.   .   .   .   When he had finished his days his body was burnt and the ashes put up in a golden urn, which they placed at Trinovantum with wonderful art at the top of the tower above-mentioned." And finally King Lud, who was famous for the building of cities, rebuilt the walls of Trinovantum and surrounded them with innumerable  towers.

" He  likewise commanded  the citizens to build houses, and all other. kinds of structures in it, so that no cities in all the foreign  countries  to  a  great  distance could show more beautiful palaces. He was withal a warlike  man,  and  very magnificent in his feasts and public entertainments. And though he had many other cities, yet he loved this above them  all,  and  resided  in  it  the greater part of the  year,  for  which  reason  it  was  afterwards  called Kaerlud, and, by corruption of the word, Caerlondon; and again,  by  change of languages in process of time, London ; as also by foreigners who arrived here and reduced this country under their subjection, Londres. At  last  he dying, his body was buried by the gate which is to this time  called  after his name Porthlud, and in the Saxon Ludesgata."

  This is the story which the men of old London believed of their city,  andwhich has historic value to the extent of its effect on their  imagination.Mr. Lethaby holds that the  legend  of  New  Troy  is  the  explanation  bymediaeval etymologists of the memory of  the  Trinobantes,  that  tribe  ofEssex and Middlesex whom Caesar found to be "the strongest state  of  thoseregions." There  is  in  the  myth  evidence  of  the  extreme  traditionalantiquity of the walls of London.

  Geoffrey is probably right in concluding from the city's name that it  hada pre-Roman origin. But when he assigns to so early a date the beginning  ofLondon's greatness he is guided only by the  chronicler's  desire  to  exaltthe honour of his subject. All knowledge of London  previous  to  the  Romanoccupation is conjectural; and warranted conjecture cannot even base  itselfon a certainty of the permanent occupation of the site in the first  centurybefore the Christian era. It is remarkable that Julius Caesar,  who,  duringhis second attempt on  Britain,  was  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  LowerThames, does not mention London. Therefore it cannot have been in  his  timean important town.

Possibly the impenetrable nature of the surrounding country  had  prevented  it  frombecoming anything but an occasional camping ground for  the  Trinobantes  orother tribes.

  In a.d. 62 occurs, in the pages of Tacitus, the first mention of the city.The Roman General Suetonius was  quelling  the  rebellion  of  the  easternBritons under Queen Boadicea. He  marched  along  the  Watling  Street  andentered Londinium, " uncertain whether he should choose it  as  a  seat  ofwar." It was still a place of  comparative  insignificance,  and  evidentlyunwalled, but as a trading port it had risen to  some  importance;  "thoughnot distinguished by the name of colony, it was much frequented by a numberof merchants and trading vessels."

The inhabitants were sympathetic to  theRomans; but Suetonius " as he looked round on his scanty force of soldiers,resolved to save the province at the cost of a single  town.  Nor  did  thetears and weeping of the people, as they implored his aid, deter  him  fromgiving the signal of departure and receiving into his army all who would gowith him. Those who were chained to the spot by the weakness of  their  sexor the infirmity of age or the attractions of the place were cut off by theenemy," who had for booty all the riches possessed by this early London.

In the two succeeding centuries the city arose again, and appears  to  have enjoyed peace and prosperity. It would seem to  have  consisted  of  houses which stood in gardens and orchards and were irregularly disposed.  Because it was conveniently situated on the Thames the Romans  made  it  the  chief centre of their road system,  a  circumstance  which  was  to  give  it  an unrivalled place in the mediaeval  kingdom.  From  the  Kentish  ports  the Watling Street, not to be confused with the city street of that  name,  led by Greenwich,

Deptford   and   St.  George's   Fields,  across   the   river   atWestminster, and then to the south end of Park Lane, where it made anangle, and subsequently followed the line of the Edgware Road, to lead  to Verulam  and  Chester.    From Colchester  another   road  crossed   theLea  at  Old   Ford, passed to the north of the city, and, keeping roughlyalong the line of Oxford  Street,   intersected  with   the Watling Streetnear Marble Arch, and thence, by way of Brentford and Hounslow, led to thewest, crossing the Thames near Staines.

Ermine Street, the road fromChichester, actually traversed the city;  it crossed the Thames to the eastof modern London Bridge, and passed northwards near the line of BridgeStreet, Gracechurch Street, and Bishopsgate, and thence by a straight road,of which parts are now Kingsland Road, High Street and Stoke NewingtonRoad, on to Lincoln.

Another Roman highway seems to have branched off fromthe western road near the site of  Brentford, and  thence, keeping to thenorth bank of the Thames, to have crossed the Watling  Street at the anglenear  Hyde Park Corner, and thence to have led to Ludgate;   and yetanother and a shorter way, of which Newgate formed part, connected theriver bank of the city with Watling Street.

  In the year 197 London was held by a company of Franks who had been in theservice of Allectus, the usurper of the imperial throne. They were  ejectedwhen part of the fleet of Constantine arrived in the river.  The fact that the city had at this  time  become  an  object  to  invadingbarbarians goes to justify those who hold that the wall around it was  builtat the  close  of  the  third  or  the  beginning  of  the  fourth  century.According, however, to another and an ably supported theory  its  origin  isno later than the middle of the second century.

    It was this Romanwall, frequently  heightened  and  repaired,  which  mainly  guarded  Londonthroughout the middle ages, which  had  eventually  the  gates  of  Aldgate,Bishopsgate, Moorgate, Cripplegate, Aldersgate,  Newgate  and  Ludgate,  andwhich was demolished only in 1766. A portion of it was removed in the  reignof Richard I. in order to allow the construction  of  Tower  Ditch;  and  in1297 Edward I. gave permission for its rebuilding from Ludgate to the  riverin such manner as should include the precincts of Blackfriars monastery.

  In 367 a mixed force of Franks,  Picts  and  Scots,  and  Saxons  attackedLondon, but were driven away by Theodosius, then in command of  the  forcesof Valentinian I., and afterwards emperor. To the late Roman  period,  whenthere was constant danger of barbarian  incursions  into  the  Thames,  theconstruction of a wall of the city along the river bank has been ascribed.

  The fact that Roman London unmistakably aroused the cupidity  of  invadinghosts is a proof of its wealth. Such is otherwise attested by evidences  ofthe culture and luxury of its inhabitants which excavators have discovered.While it would seem never to have been an eminent  place  in  the  militarysystem, it was probably a very important trading town. Its dignity was suchthat it received  the  title  of  Augusta,  apparently  in  the  period  ofConstantine the Great, the early fourth century.

  The Roman protection was withdrawn from London about  the  year  410,  andthen a dark period supervened in the history of the  city.  Probably  tradeand population dwindled almost or quite to nothing.  There  may  have  beenmany attempts, successful and otherwise, on the  part  of  one  or  anotherforce to hold or to acquire the walled town  which  commanded  the  Thames.

A hint of such a course of eventsis given by the record that in 457 the Britons fled  from  Kent  to  London.There is indeed a theory that the history of London has  been  exceptionallycontinuous from Roman until modern times  ;  but  this  presupposes  in  theLondoners after the departure of the  Romans  very  unusual  and  unattestedstrength and organisation. The hypothesis is  moreover  unnecessary  to  theexplanation of later conditions. There is no absolute proof that the  Romansinfluenced the mediseval and modern city except in so far as they  had  madethe wall and the roads. The gap in knowledge was  in  a  less  critical  agefilled by Arthurian legends.

  In the beginning of the seventh century London is, through the writings ofthe Venerable Bede, rediscovered. As in 62  its  commercial  importance  isemphasised : it is described as an emporium of many peoples  to  which  mentravelled by land and by sea. It  was  also  the  metropolis  of  the  EastSaxons, and one of the two archiepiscopal sees instituted in  601  by  PopeGregory. St. Augustine in 604 ordained Mellitus bishop of the East  Saxons,and their king, Ethelbert, made on the site near the west gate of his chiefcity the church of St. Paul, for the bishop and his successors.

Thus  SaxonLondon, a city built of wood within the area which the Romans had enclosed,and partly along the lines of their streets, was a  centre  of  trade,  thecapital of a kingdom, and a cathedral town. Its life  probably  centred  inthe cathedral precincts, for there, where until the sixteenth century stoodthe city belfry, was the meeting-place of the  folkmoot.  This  institutionwas called in later mediaeval times a thing of ancient custom, and it is soSaxon in  character  that  there  is  little  hardihood  in  asserting  itsexistence when London was the  capital  of  Essex.  Under  the  pious  KingEthelbert a bell must have rung to bring the people together outside thecathedral; and there they must have assembled in arms, shaken their  spearsin dissent, or clashed their shields in applause, and responded with  criesof approval or condemnation, as the proposals of  their  rulers  were  laidbefore them.

  After the death of Ethelbert in 616 London relapsed into  heathendom,  butwas again converted in the second half of the century.

  There are fairly continuous records of the part played by London, from theninth century onwards, in the struggle with the Danes. From  the  reign  ofAlfred the increasing independence and importance of the city is  apparent;it acted as a unit, and as one which  wielded  much  influence  in  Englishpolitics. It played moreover a very gallant part.  From  all  this  followsthat it possessed an efficient form of government and was inhabited  by  anintelligent people.

  But in the first part of the ninth century the history of the city is  sadand chaotic. The war of defence was being waged in the  Thames  valley:  in839 a great slaughter occurred in London ; in 851 the town was sacked by  ahost of pagans who brought three hundred and fifty ships to  the  mouth  ofthe Thames. Then came a time of confusion, " down and up, and up and  down,and dreadful." In the winter of 872-3 the Danish army wintered  in  London.At last in 885 the partition of the country  between  Alfred  and  Gruthrumgave the city to the English king; and he restored it, and committed the  "burh" to the keeping of his son-in-law, Ethelred ealdorman of Mercia.

  Thus security and order returned in some degree to  the  Londoners.  Therehas been discussion as to the king's exact measures: by some he is  held  tohave built a citadel,  perhaps  on  Tower  Hill;  by  others  only  to  haverestored the wall. At all events, when  in  893  the  Danes  again  attacked  the  city,Ethelred led out the Londoners and they  obtained  a  victory  outside  thewalls. In 897 the men of London seized  on  certain  Danish  ships  in  theriver, and such as were stalwart they brought up to their city.

  In 912 Edward the Elder took possession, apparently without  violence,  ofLondon. This must mean either that he secured the immediate  rule  delegatedby his father to Ethelred, or  that  the  city  had  fallen  away  from  theEnglish supremacy. In 982 there occurred the first  of  the  many  fires  ofLondon on record; the chronicler does not state whether the town  was  burntby accident or by the Danes. A reference in the description of the event  isto a suburb which was evidently situated along the Strand. That  street  wasprobably a Roman way, and it is likely that the  settlement  which  at  thisdate existed on it was that one of the Danes which caused it  afterwards  tobe called " Vicus Dacorum," and  which  named  the  church  of  St.  ClementDanes.

In 992 the Londoners saw a fine sight on their  river,  for  all  theships that were of any worth were  gathered  together  beside  the  city  bydecree of Ethelred the Unready and his witan. Two years later,  on  the  8thof September, ninety-four ships of the Northmen were brought  to  London  byOlaf, King of Norway, and Sweyn, King of Denmark, who  would  have  set  thecity on fire. " But they there sustained more harm and evil than  they  everweened that any townsmen could do to them. For the Holy Mother  of  God,  onthat day, manifested her mercy to  the  townsmen  and  delivered  them  fromtheir foes." Again, under the year 1009,  the  chronicler  states  that  theDanes "often fought against London, but to God be praise that it yet  standssound ; and they there ever fared ill; " and in the winter of that year theDanes avoided the city because they heard that a force was there gatheredagainst them.

  In 1013 the city yielded  to  the  Danes.  King  Sweyn  had  received  thesubmission of Oxford and of Winchester, and he marched  to  London.  As  hecrossed the Thames many of his force were drowned, apparently because  theytried to swim their horses across the river. King Ethelred was in the city,and this is given as a reason for the determined resistance offered by  thetownsmen. They withstood King Sweyn in battle until he abandoned his attackand  marched  westwards.

In  the  course  of  the  year  all  the   nationacknowledged him as king, and then the Londoners realised that  by  furtherobstinacy they would doom themselves. They  tendered  their  submission  toSweyn and gave him hostages, and Ethelred took refuge with the fleet on theThames, whence at midwinter he passed to the Isle of Wight on  his  way  toNormandy.

  A contemporary poem tells how Holy  Olaf,  King  of  Norway,  broke  down London Bridge about the year 1014 in an attack on the  Danes  made  in  the interest of Ethelred, evidently after the death of  Sweyn.  As  the  result Ethelred was restored to the city, and in  1016  he  lay  there  sick  unto death. He died on the 23rd of April, and then the townsmen and all  of  the Witan who were in London assembled, and chose Edmund for their  king.  This was to give remarkable prominence to the city.

   In the same year another event had illustrated the high place held by the citizens. Edmund, as the king's son, had summoned  the  Mercian  fyrd,  but they had told him that " it did not please them to go forth unless the king were with them, and they had the support of the burgesses of London."

The struggle between Edmund and Cnut, King of Denmark, centred roundLondon.    In May the Danish ships came up the  Thames, and by means of agreat ditch dug on the Southwark side they dragged their ships from LondonBridge to the part of the river above it.    Evidently therefore the bridgehad been rebuilt.    Then by ditches the Danes prevented any passage in orout of the city; and they repeatedly engaged in fights with the townsmen,but were boldly withstood.

Edmund raised the siege and drove theNorthmen back to their ships.    But later in the year they returned to "London, " and beset the city around, and obstinately fought against it bothby water and land.    But almighty God saved it,"   and the Danish armydeparted.

After Cnut's great victory  at   Assendune  the  country  was  divided   between the kings: Wessex fell to Edmund, and Mercia withLondon to Cnut.    And then the Londoners bought peace from the Danes, andthe Danish army took up their winter quarters in the city.    " Ever sincethe hard fight was fought," wrote a Danish poet, " we sit merrily in fairLondon."    The whole kingdom accrued to Cnut after the death of Edmund onSt. Andrew's day.

   On Cnut's death in 1035 London again had a voice in the selection  of  a  successor to the throne. At an assembly  of  the  Witan  held  in  London,  Harold Harefoot was chosen king by "  Earl  Leofric  and  nearly  all  the  thegns north of the  Thames  and  the  sailors  of  London."  London  must  therefore, as in Roman times, have been distinguished by  merchantmen  who  travelled over seas.

    Again, at the death of Harthacnut in 1042, the citizens of London joined  with others of the Witan who were able to be present,  and  chose  Edward  the Confessor king.

    On the 15th of September, 1052, a great assembly of theEnglish people met in the open air outside the walls of  London.  The  kingwas reconciled with Earl Godwin, Gytha his wife, and his four valiant sons,Harold, Tostig, Gyrth, and Leofwine, and afterwards the king and  the  earlwalked unarmed down to the palace of Westminster.

  The palace made first by King Cnut had been burnt, but it had  been  builtagain by Edward the Confessor. In  the  half  century  which  preceded  theConquest it was the principal residence of kings, and its proximity to  thecity caused Witanagemots frequently to be held in London. Under Harold  sonof Godwin Westminster was a more constant dwelling-place of the court  thanever it had been before, and concurrently London became in some degree  thecapital of England.

  It is most probable that many  of  the  parish  churches  of  London  werefounded not long before the Conquest; some must have an earlier origin.  Thepopulation in the  eleventh  century,  as  afterwards,  had  a  cosmopolitanelement, due to the power of commerce, the church, and the  court.  The  menof Rouen and the abbey of St. Peter at Ghent owned  property  in  the  city;the Flemings, the French, and the emperor's men were free  to  come  to  theport of London ; many ecclesiastics  had  French  or  Norman  names.  It  isnatural that the continental influences which Edward the  Confessor  broughtto bear upon England should have had much effect in his principal town.
This entry was posted on Thursday, July 19th, 2007 at 7:45 pm.
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